A Pastel De Nata Odyssey.
The Pastel de Nata; an infamously addictive, little laminated puff pastry parcel I’d never had the pleasure of sampling before a recent trip to the City of Seven Hills.
Created in the 18th century by monks at Jerónimos Monastery in Lisbon to use up egg yolks leftover from starching nun’s clothes, these holy men crafted a morsel as prized by the Portuguese as the sacrament.
Friends and family always seemed to return from Portugal with mythical tales of this sweet custard treat. I couldn’t fathom why it was so revered, likened in stories to Olympian ambrosia.
Really, I thought, it must be a big misunderstanding — everyone swept up in the hysteria and novelty. How could it have such a hold over visitors? Would I fall prey to the same fever?
I always swore the only time I’d try one wouldn’t be in Soho or a Gail’s imposter — only in Lisbon, where it felt right. So I set out to search for and sample the best I could find. Are they worth the hype, and where’s the best?
Here are my findings:
Manteigaria: Incredible start, warm with a hint of cinnamon and a beautiful, browned sugar crust. 8/10
A Brasileira: Famous spot in the centre. Warm, fresh, deep custard flavour but a little sickly. 6.5/10
Castro: Subtler custard, heavier cinnamon. 7/10
Bairro Alto Hotel: Custard explosion. No pastry integrity, cold and too thin. All over my hands. 2/10
Santo Antonio: Meant to be one of the best, but average. No complaints, no praise. 5/10
Confeitaria Nacional: Cold custard. Better than a leakage, but still cold. 3/10
Casa do Licor Pastel de Nata: Flaky pastry, warm and fresh but too liquid. Nice but forgettable. 6/10
Am I converted? Have I seen the custard-hued light? Sure. They’re tasty little numbers. But do I lie awake dreaming of my next trip to the land of the Nata eaters?
No, not really. Sorry readers.